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Winterize
Your Landscape
As
the days cool off and much of the landscape beauty
fades, it's easy to forget that our gardens need
preparation for the winter months. In warmer
climates, this may involve only minor chores like
cleaning and sharpening tools, insuring for
adequate drainage, cutting back spent flowers, etc.
In the north, steps should be taken to prepare the
landscape for harsh winter conditions.
I'm
often reminded of the old adage: "Take good care of
your tools, and they will take care of you." Metal
parts of hand tools should receive a light coat of
oil before winter storage. Wooden handles should be
sanded lightly if weathered and can also be lightly
oiled to preserve the wood.
Power
tools need special care before storage: four cycle
engines (most lawnmowers) should be cleaned
thoroughly, blades sharpened and a fuel conditioner
added to the gas tank...run the engine for a minute
to distribute the conditioner. Two cycle engines
(string line trimmers, chain saws, etc.) should be
drained of fuel and run so all fuel is purged from
the carburetor - then remove the spark plug, add a
few drops of oil to the cylinder, pull the starter
rope slowly a few times, replace the spark plug and
store. These procedures will help you get off to a
good start in the spring - consult with your
mechanic or power tool supplier for more
information.
If
you have an irrigation system, and your winter
temperatures fall below freezing for extended
periods, remove all water from the system by
draining (if designed with this ability) or by
applying air pressure. You'll need to rent a
compressor or hire a local irrigation or landscape
contractor. For more information on irrigation
winterization (and other excellent irrigation info)
go to: http://jessstryker.com/winter.htm
Water
features should be kept clear of leaves and
twigs...if you don't use a skimmer, clean the
surface daily or cover with netting. Stop feeding
fish when the water temperature drops below forty
five degrees. Even here in the far northern U.S.,
fish will hibernate safely if the pond has areas at
least two feet deep...and if a hole is kept open in
the ice to allow damaging gases to escape (one foot
diameter for each one hundred square feet of pond
surface). Many pond owners keep the pump and
waterfall running throughout winter to help with
aeration and to enjoy the beautiful natural ice
sculptures. Hardy water plants can remain on site,
but tender plants need extra care...for more info
on this: http://www.ent.iastate.edu/ipm/hortnews/1994/10-14-1994/hoh.html
Extreme,
and sometimes rapid, change in temperature can
cause serious damage to plant material; to protect
plants from the freeze /thaw cycle, mulch
perennials, trees and shrubs well. Wait until the
soil has cooled, but not frozen, and apply four to
six inches of clean straw, pine needles, chopped or
shredded bark or compost (the coarser materials
will settle to three or four inches). Leaves tend
to mat and will exclude water - these are best
composted first. Extend the mulch to the drip line
of the plant, but keep it two to three inches away
from the trunks of trees and shrubs to discourage
rodents from feasting on the bark.
Hybrid
tea roses especially need this protection...mound
the mulch eight to ten inches over the crown of the
plant. Wait to prune these in the spring, when any
dead or damaged canes can be identified.
In
the vegetable garden, strawberries will definitely
benefit from a mulch, as will other small fruit and
fruit trees. After the extremely heavy snows of the
winter of '96, I changed my view about pruning
raspberries - the snows flattened all the canes, so
now I prune and tie up the canes in late fall (I
better get busy...snow is coming soon!).
Each
region has its specific winter conditions...your
local county extension agent may have information
which will help. You can find contact information
for these offices here: http://www.reeusda.gov/1700/statepartners/usa.htm
Good
luck with your winterization projects! If you have
any questions, feel free to contact me.
Dan
Eskelson
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