 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
-- Contractors Click Here |
| |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
Dishwasher Troubleshooting & Repair
WHAT IS WRONG WITH YOUR DISHWASHER? |
| It doesn't work at all It cleans poorly There's no water entering the machine The water doesn't drain from the machine It's noisy It leaks The dry cycle has problems The door has problems The cycle doesn't complete I see an error code The detergent cup doesn't open The cycle times are too long Learn more about dishwashers Dishwasher parts |
| Note: If your repair problem isn't
listed, click
here to email the RepairGuru. He will give you the help you need. |
| If your dishwasher doesn't work at all, check
these: Power from the house Door switch Wiring Timer or selector switch |
| Is there power getting to the dishwasher?
This can be difficult to test, because dishwashers are usually wired
directly to an electrical circuit, rather than plugged into the wall.
But at least check for a blown fuse or a tripped circuit breaker. |
| The door switch is important because, if it's
defective, the dishwasher won't work at all. To reach it, you need
to remove the control panel cover, or sometimes the interior liner
of the door. If it's defective, you need to completely replace it. |
| Often the main wiring connection from the
house, at the dishwasher, burns and breaks the connection. If that's
the problem, the wires must be repaired/replaced as necessary. If
that's not the problem, check the wiring to the door switch, the wiring
between the door and the lower part of the dishwasher, and the wiring
to the timer. Repair any broken, burned, brittle, or defective wiring,
using the proper appliance-grade wire and connectors. |
| Although it's uncommon, the timer or the selector
switch may be defective. If so, you need to replace the defective
part, because neither of these can be repaired. |
| If your dishwasher is cleaning poorly, check
these: Water-inlet valve Internal filters Drain valve Spray arms Water temperature Detergent cup |
| Most cleaning problems are caused by the dishwasher
not getting enough wash water, so the water-inlet valve is often to
blame. This valve is usually at the bottom left or right of the dishwasher,
behind the lower access panel. It's the device with the main water
line from the house, a rubber tube to the dishwasher, and two wires
attached to it. When a water-inlet valve is defective, you may hear the sound that's usually referred to as "water hammer." If the water-inlet valve is defective, you need to completely replace it. |
Every dishwasher has some type of filter to
keep large food particles and foreign objects away from the pump assembly:
|
| Some dishwashers have a valve (or gate) that
should open only during draining. If debris lodges in the valve, it
can't close properly, so water drains out during the wash cycle. Most
dishwashers drain into the garbage disposer. If yours does that, listen
for water flowing into the disposer during the wash cycle. If you
can hear it then, the drain valve may be clogged. |
| There's a spray arm at the bottom of your
dishwasher--it may have a tall spray tube mounted to the center of
it. There may also be a spray arm located directly beneath the upper
rack of dishes and/or above the upper rack. If debris is blocking the holes in the spray arms where the water comes out, it could cause cleaning problems. Regularly inspect each of the spray arms and clean out the holes as necessary. |
| To get the best cleaning results, the water
entering your dishwasher needs to be hot enough. Try running the hot
water in your kitchen sink for about 30 seconds before starting the
dishwasher, to pre-heat it. Also, if your dishwasher lets you select
a higher wash or rinse temperature, try that to see if it helps. To check the temperature of the hot water that comes from your kitchen faucet use a waterproof thermometer. If the water isn't 120 degrees Fahrenheit, your dishwasher may have trouble getting your dishes clean. You could increase the temperature of the hot water to the whole house--and therefore the dishwasher--by adjusting the hot water heater thermostat. Warning! To lessen the risk of scalding, don't set the hot water heater temperature higher than 120 degrees Fahrenheit. |
| Dishwashers don't perform their best if detergent
is introduced only at the beginning of a cycle, so add detergent to
both parts of the cup. If the detergent cup isn't opening, see the "The detergent cup doesn't open" section, below. |
| If there's no water entering your dishwasher,
check these: Water-inlet valve Float switch |
| The water-inlet valve lets water enter the
machine. If this valve is defective, you need to completely replace
it. It's usually located behind the lower access panel on the left
or right side. It's the device with the main water line (usually copper)
from the house, a rubber tube to the dishwasher, and two wires attached
to it. |
| The float switch is a small electrical switch
that's located right below the dishwasher "floor." Above the switch,
on the inside of the dishwasher, is a plastic cylinder that floats
up as water fills the dishwasher. If this switch is defective, or
if the plastic float gets caught or trapped in the raised position,
the water can't enter the dishwasher. If the float switch is defective,
you need to replace it. |
| If the water doesn't drain from your dishwasher,
check these: Drain line/air gap Pump Drain valve and/or solenoid Belt Motor Timer |
| A clog in the drain line or air gap (if there
is one) is the usual reason that a dishwasher won't drain. Often the
problem is at the point where the drain line attaches to the garbage
disposer or household drain line. If you remove this line, you can
clear any debris from the hose or hose connection. Be sure to reattach
the hose before starting the dishwasher again. |
| Your dishwasher pump ejects the water. The
pump is usually mounted directly to the motor, then attached to the
bottom of the dishwasher. You can reach the pump from inside the dishwasher,
but first you need to remove the lower rack, the spray arm, and the
spray arm support. Look for an impeller--a round plastic fan blade-type of device that spins around. This is the wash impeller, which forces the water through the spray arm. Beneath the wash impeller is the drain impeller, which is similar in size and shape to the wash impeller. The drain impeller pushes the water toward the drain port. These components make up the pump. If any of the pump components are defective, you need to replace them. |
| Many dishwashers use a drain valve with an
electric solenoid. When electricity flows to the solenoid, the valve
opens and diverts the water to the drain. Sometimes the solenoid,
or the diverting lever, sticks and prevents the dishwasher from draining
or filling properly. Try to free up the solenoid to lubricate the
lever. Otherwise, you may have to replace the solenoid or pump assembly.
With these systems, the motor always rotates in one direction. When
it's energized, the drain valve diverts the water. Other dishwashers simply reverse the direction of the motor to drain the dishwasher. These units don't have a drain valve. Instead, there's a drain hose connected directly to the pump housing. |
| One brand of dishwasher uses a belt to drive
the pump. If this belt is broken or has fallen off, replace it. |
| If the motor isn't turning or working, the
unit won't drain. First check to be sure you have power to the dishwasher.
If not, see the section "It doesn't work at all." If the motor hums
but doesn't turn, it may need to be replaced. Some dishwashers are susceptible to getting stuck if you don't run them regularly. If you haven't run the dishwasher for more than a week, you may need to manually spin the motor to free it up. If the motor is defective, you need to replace it. Dishwasher motors can't be serviced. |
| Part of what the timer does is control the
motor and drain valve. If the timer doesn't work properly, the water
may not drain and you need to replace the timer. This problem is uncommon. |
| If your dishwasher seems noisy, check these: Water-inlet valve Motor Heater fan Pump |
| An aging water-inlet valve can sometimes fail
slowly, rather than all at once. It can shudder on and off rapidly,
causing the incoming water lines to shake, rumble, and rattle--sometimes
violently. If yours is doing this, replace the inlet valve. |
If it's the motor that's noisy, either of
these may be the "culprit:"
|
| If the heater fan bearings are rusted or worn,
they may squeal, or scrape loudly during the drying cycle. If this
is the problem, replace the fan motor. Alternatively, the fan blade
may be loose. If so, you need to replace it. |
| Small fruit pits, toothpicks, and fragments
of glass sometimes get stuck in the pump. When this happens, open
the pump and remove the debris. The pump is usually mounted directly
to the motor, then attached to the bottom of the dishwasher. To get to the pump, you usually need to remove the lower rack, the spray arms, and the spray arm support from the inside of your dishwasher. A dishwasher pump isn't obvious. Look for an impeller--a round, plastic fan blade-type device that spins around and pushes the water toward the drain. When you can see the drain impeller, you should be able to see the clogging debris. |
| If your dishwasher leaks, check these: Main tub seal Door gasket or seal Water-inlet valve Hoses |
| Note… If the main motor of your dishwasher
is mounted vertically, beneath the center bottom of the dishwasher,
the following instructions probably apply to you. But if your motor
is mounted horizontally, the pump isn't serviceable--you need to replace
the entire pump and motor assembly. The main tub seal is beneath the drain impeller. It prevents the water in the dishwasher from leaking out near the shaft of the motor. To get to the seal, which is inside the dishwasher, remove the:
|
| Over time, door gaskets and seals harden and
lose their ability to seal properly. You can't repair the seals. You
need to replace them if they've begun to leak. |
| The water-inlet valve, itself, seldom leaks.
But, the water-supply line from the house and the rubber tube leading
from the valve to the inside of the dishwasher may leak. Tighten or
repair/replace these as necessary. The water-inlet valve could mechanically stick open. When that happens, the water continues to flow into the dishwasher, which then floods your kitchen. Turn off the water supply to the dishwasher, and replace the valve. |
| Behind the lower access panel on your dishwasher
are several rubber or plastic hoses. If the leak appears at a connection,
try a new clamp. If that doesn't work, replace the hose. |
| If the dry cycle has a problem, check these: Heating element Drying fan Thermostat |
| Your dishwasher has an electrical heating
element that helps to dry the dishes. If the element is burned out,
the dishes won't dry properly, and you need to replace the element. |
| Many high-priced dishwashers have a small
fan that blows air or heated air into the dishwasher to speed up the
drying process. If the fan is defective, you need to replace it. |
| Some dishwashers have a thermostat that monitors
the drying temperature. If the thermostat is defective, the heating
element may not cycle on or off properly. If that's the problem, you
need to replace the thermostat. |
| When your dishwasher door has a problem, check
these: Latch Springs Hinges Door seal |
| The latch on many dishwashers is adjustable.
If your door is easy to close but difficult to latch, adjust the latch
to let the door close more easily. If you can't see any way to adjust
the latch, yours may be fixed in a certain position. Check for other
reasons for the latching problem. If the latch has worn out in a way that makes it impossible for you to close the door properly, you probably need to replace the latch. |
| Your dishwasher has two springs that counterbalance
the weight of the door. If either or both of these are broken, the
door feels quite heavy and you need to replace both springs. |
| The hinges are important to the door closing
properly. If they're bent or deformed, you probably need to replace
them. Once bent, only rarely can they be straightened well enough. |
| If your dishwasher is new--or if you have
just replaced a door seal--the door may be difficult to latch for
a week or two. If the tightness persists, though, try adjusting the
latch, if it's adjustable. If it's not adjustable, there's probably
nothing you can do immediately. But try running the dishwasher on
the highest heat cycle to help the seal conform to the door. Otherwise,
the seal should compress over time. |
| If the cycle doesn't complete, check these: Water-heating cycle Timer |
Many dishwashers heat the wash and/or rinse
water to a higher temperature, as the cycle calls for it. In these
cycles, the dishwasher pauses after it has filled with water, waiting
for the water to reach the pre-set temperature. What happens next,
depends, as follows:
|
| Timers don't often fail. But if every other
part of the dishwasher seems to be working properly and the timer
knob seems to be stuck in one place--doing one function continuously--the
timer may be at fault. Dishwasher timers can't be repaired. If yours
is defective, replace it. |
| If your dishwasher has a digital readout and
you see an error code, it may indicate a problem with the unit. If
this happens, look up the error code in your owner's manual to find
out what the problem is. |
| When the detergent cup doesn't open, check
these: Timer Bi-metal switch or wax motor Detergent cup, itself |
| On many dishwashers, a plastic actuator arm
mechanically links the timer to the detergent cup. When the timer
reaches the proper time in the cycle, the timer activates a lever
that opens the detergent cup. If the linkage is broken or defective,
the cup stays closed after you've closed it. Check the link and repair
or replace it, as necessary. |
| A bi-metal switch is a simple electrical device
that deforms when electricity is applied to it. The degree of this
deformation can be engineered to concise standards. The timer energizes the bi-metal switch inside your dishwasher door--directly behind the detergent cup--when the detergent cup should open. When energized, the bi-metal switch deforms away from the detergent cup latch, which opens the detergent cup. If the bi-metal switch is defective, it may not deform enough to open the cup. If that happens, you need to replace it. On some dishwashers, the bimetal switch is wired through the heating element or motor circuit. If the element is broken (or open), or if the motor is drawing low current because of a low-fill situation, the bi-metal switch doesn't open properly. Newer dishwasher models use a wax motor instead of a bi-metal switch. It's a sealed unit with wax that heats up and pushes a piston through to open the door. The wax motor, controlled by the timer, mechanically opens the door. |
| The detergent cup itself can become clogged
with old dried detergent that prevents it from opening. Sometimes
just cleaning the cup takes care of the problem. If not, you probably
need to replace the entire cup assembly |
| If your dishwasher's cycle times are too long,
check these: Water pre-heating Cycle not completing |
| Your dishwasher may pre-heat the water. If
so, and if the water entering the dishwasher is cool, the heater may
take up to half an hour to heat the water. To avoid the wait, increase the incoming water temperature before turning on the dishwasher. Do that by running the kitchen sink faucet until the water runs hot. Or increase the temperature of the hot water to the entire house at the hot water heater. Warning! To lessen the risk of scalding, don't set the hot water heater temperature higher than 120 degrees Fahrenheit. |
| See "The cycle doesn't complete" section. |
Still haven't found, what you looking for here? We have more details on dishwasher repair for you to detect what's wrong with your home appliance. |
Warning! To avoid personal injury or even death, always disconnect your appliance from its power source--that is, unplug it or break the connection at the circuit breaker or fuse box--before you do any troubleshooting or repair work on your appliance. Also, because some components may have sharp edges, use caution while working on your appliance.
| |
| |
| Home Page
| Terms | Add
a Link | Contact Us | Search
Site |
| Find a Contractor | Contractor Sign Up | Sumbmit Articles |
| Find a Contractor | Contractor Sign Up | Sumbmit Articles |