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Freezer Troubleshooting & Repair
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WHAT
IS WRONG WITH YOUR FREEZER?
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It
doesn't work at all It's not cooling It
cools poorly or it's all iced up It's
noisy It doesn't cycle off
Learn
more about freezers Freezer
parts |
| Note: Most chest and upright freezers
require manual defrosting. These freezers have significantly fewer
components--and therefore fewer problems--than self-defrosting
freezers. |
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Does the light inside
the freezer work? Or, can you hear a fan, motor, or other sound
coming from the appliance? If so, the freezer is still working.
Go to the specific problem you are having with the appliance.
If not, try adjusting the thermostat to a colder setting. If your
freezer still doesn't work, read on.
To check to see if power is getting to the freezer, plug a lamp
or other device into the same outlet as the freezer. If there's
power, check the fuses or circuit breakers. If that's not the
problem, contact a qualified electrician to restore power to the
outlet.
If there's power to the freezer but it still doesn't work at all,
there may be a problem with one of these:
- Wiring
- Thermostat
- Defrost timer
- Compressor
- Overload and/or relay
The problem with your refrigerator can be difficult to pinpoint
without a clear indication of a specific defective component.
At this point, we recommend that you see help from a qualified
appliance repair technician. |
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If the freezer seems
to be doing nothing, see the "It doesn't work at all" section,
above. Otherwise, check these:
- Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting?
- Is the compressor motor running? It's a football-sized case
with no apparent moving parts on the outside of the freezer
at the back near the bottom. Is it humming or making any kind
of continuous noise? If it is, but your freezer is still not
cooling at all, there may be a serious problem with one or
more of these areas:
- The compressor
- The condenser
- The evaporator
You can't service these yourself. You need to contact a qualified
appliance repair technician.
If the compressor isn't running but you do have power to the
freezer, there may be a problem in one or more of these areas:
- The compressor
- The overload and relay
- The defrost timer
For information about these components, read about freezers in
the How Things Work section of our website. |
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It
cools poorly or it's all iced up |
If your freezer cools
but doesn't get cold enough, it may have a problem in one of several
areas. To better understand the proper operation of a freezer,
read about freezers in the How Things Work section of our website.
In a self-defrosting freezer, poor cooling often results from
a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see
these coils without removing a panel inside your freezer. But
if you see any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, ceiling,
or floor of your freezer, it's a sure sign of frost build-up.
And that's a sign of a problem with the self-defrosting system.
Freezers should self-defrost three to four times in 24 hours.
But if a component in the self-defrosting system fails, the freezer
continues to try to cool, instead. Eventually, so much frost builds
up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw
air over the coils. There's still some cooling because the coils
are frozen. But with no air flow over the coils, the cooling is
quite limited and the freezer isn't as cold as it needs to be.
An easy (though often inconvenient) test of whether the problem
is with the self-defrosting system is to remove all of the perishable
food from the freezer, turn the thermostat to Off, and leave the
door open for 24 to 48 hours. (Keep several towels handy in case
the melting frost and ice overflows the drip pan). This "manually"
defrosts the freezer. When the frost and ice build-up has completely
melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If
the freezer then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one
of these components in the self-defrosting system:
- The defrost timer. To test this, manually advance to the
defrost cycle. The unit should advance itself out of the defrost
cycle in about 45 minutes.
- The defrost thermostat (or bi-metal switch). This thermostat
allows current to pass through it at temperatures of 20 to
30 degrees Fahrenheit and prevents current from passing through
it at 40 to 60 degrees (depending on its design). This is
difficult to test, though, because it takes a prolonged, very-cold
temperature to turn it on.
- The defrost heater. You can test this for continuity using
an electrical meter.
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Noise can come from
these areas:
The inside of the freezer The
outside back of the freezer The bottom
of the freezer |
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The
inside of the freezer |
Your self-defrosting
freezer uses a circulating fan to move the air throughout the
freezer. It runs whenever the freezer is cooling and the door
is closed. The fan is located in the freezer section, as follows:
- If the freezer is on the top, the fan is on the back wall,
either near the top or bottom, in the center of the freezer.
- If the freezer is on the bottom, the fan is on the back
wall, near the top of the freezer.
- If the freezer is on the left, the fan is on the back wall,
either half way up or near the top.
Over time, the fan may become noisy--chirping, squealing, or even
groaning. To determine whether the fan is causing the noise, open
the freezer door and hold in the door switch. If the noise is
louder when the door is open, the evaporator fan motor is the
noisemaker. These motors can't be serviced. You need to replace
it. |
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The
outside back of the freezer |
This area has one component--or
two, if it's a self-defrosting freezer:
- The compressor is a black, football-sized case with no apparent
moving parts on the outside of the freezer at the back near
the bottom. It has black or copper-colored tubes and various
colored wires attached to it. If the compressor is noisy,
there's probably no repair that will reduce the noise. You
need to replace it, which can be quite costly.
- The condenser fan, if it's noisy, may have lint or debris
on its fan blades that's causing the noise. Try cleaning the
fan blade. If that doesn't work, you need to replace the fan.
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The
bottom of the freezer |
| Noises here are almost
always actually coming from the back of the freezer, see the "The
outside back of the freezer" section, above. |
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The thermostat cycles
the freezer on and off. The cooling system runs as long as the
temperature inside the freezer is higher than the set temperature.
If the temperature inside the freezer is cold enough, but the
thermostat doesn't cycle off, the thermostat may be defective.
If so, you need to replace it. |
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MORE INFORMATION ON YOUR APPLIANCE
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Still haven't found, what you looking for here? We have more details on freezer repair for you to detect what's wrong with your home appliance. |
Warning! To avoid personal injury or even
death, always disconnect your appliance from its power source--that is,
unplug it or break the connection at the circuit breaker or fuse box--before
you do any troubleshooting or repair work on your appliance. Also, because
some components may have sharp edges, use caution while working on your
appliance. |
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