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Refrigerator (Fridge) Troubleshooting & Repair
WHAT IS WRONG WITH YOUR REFRIGERATOR? |
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It's stopped completely |
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| Note: If your repair problem isn't listed, click here to email the RepairGuru. He will give you the help you need. It's stopped completely |
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| First,
check to see if the light comes on or if there is any fan, motor,
or other sound coming from the appliance? If so, the refrigerator isn't really completely stopped--go to the specific problem you are
having. If not, try adjusting the thermostat to a colder setting.
If that doesn't work, read on. Second, check to see if there is power getting to the refrigerator. To do that, plug a lamp or other device into the same outlet the refrigerator is plugged into. If there's no power, check the fuses or circuit breakers. If the fuses or breakers aren't the problem, contact a qualified electrician to restore power to the outlet. If there is power to the appliance but it still seems to be stopped, there may be a problem in one or more of these:
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| If the
refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see
if the compressor is running. First, answer these questions:
The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help. If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:
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| For an overall
understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators
in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer
that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of
several areas: Evaporator coils Condenser Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt. |
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| Poor
cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator
coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside
of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence
of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling
of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem
in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
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| Self-defrosting
refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under
the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils
get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool
properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like
device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the
refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush
(see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to
clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to
get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to
clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. |
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| Noise can come
from these areas: The inside of the freezer The outside back of the refrigerator The bottom of the refrigerator |
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Self-defrosting
refrigerators use a circulating fan to move the air through the freezer
and refrigerator compartments. This fan runs whenever the unit is
cooling. The fan is located in the freezer, as follows:
To find out if the fan is causing the noise, just open the freezer door and push in any fan/light switches. If the noise is louder when the door is open, the evaporator fan motor is the cause. You can't lubricate or repair this motor. You must replace it. |
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There
are three components on the outside back of the refrigerator that
may become noisy: the compressor, the condenser fan motor (if self-defrosting),
or the defrost timer (if self-defrosting).
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| Noises detected
at the bottom of the refrigerator almost always originate from the
back of the refrigerator. However, sometimes the drain pan under the
refrigerator will rattle. You may need to tape the pan in place to
stop a rattle. Also see the “Outside back of the refrigerator.” |
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| Water can leak
from these areas: The bottom front of the refrigerator or freezer door The back of the refrigerator The inside ceiling of the refrigerator The inside back wall of the refrigerator Underneath the front of the refrigerator |
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| Self-defrosting
refrigerators usually dispose of the water generated during the defrost
cycle via a tube or channel that directs the water to a pan at the
bottom of the refrigerator. From the pan, the water normally evaporates.
(See a more detailed explanation of this in the How Things Work section
of our website). If the tube or channel is clogged or obstructed, the water backs up and leaks into the inside of the refrigerator compartment. Then the water builds up at the bottom, inside of the refrigerator. When the water has built up for a time it may spill out of the front of the door opening. To fix this problem, clear the drain tube or channel and allow the defrost water to flow down to the drain pan. In some refrigerators, the defrost water is intentionally directed down the back wall of the refrigerator, where it then flows to the bottom of the refrigerator compartment and out to a small drain--usually located beneath one of the drawers at the bottom of the refrigerator. If the drain becomes clogged or blocked, the water may back up. To fix this problem, clear the obstruction. Another cause may be the following. The refrigerator may have doorframe heaters to evaporate any condensation on the cabinet frame. If your refrigerator is equipped with a switch inside that says “energy saver” or something similar, while running in that mode the door heaters are disabled. Turn the switch to the opposite setting and wait 24 hours. If the condensation disappears the problem is solved. |
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| Water
coming from the back of the refrigerator usually comes from either
the ice maker water valve or line (if there is an ice maker), or from
the defrost drain pan. Here's what to do:
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| Water accumulating
on the ceiling of the refrigerator is usually caused by a clogged
drain in the freezer section beneath the evaporator. The clogged drain
will cause water from the self defrost cycle to leak into the divider
between the freezer and refrigerator. This water may then freeze and
cause condensation build-up on the refrigerator ceiling. The solution
to this problem begins with unclogging the drain. It may also be necessary
to remove the entire freezer/refrigerator divider to thoroughly dry
the insulation in the divider. Occasionally the insulation needs to
be replaced to prevent a recurrence of the problem. This can be a
big job – you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician. |
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| In some refrigerators,
the water from the defrost cycle is intentionally directed down the
back wall of the refrigerator, where it then flows to the bottom of
the refrigerator compartment and out to a small drain - usually located
beneath one of the drawers at the bottom of the refrigerator. If the
drain becomes clogged or blocked, the water may back up. To fix this
problem, clear the obstruction. |
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| If the refrigerator
is equipped with a water dispenser on the freezer door, check if the
water line to the dispenser is leaking. Also, check the drip pan to
be sure it isn’t out of place, broken or cracked. |
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| See the “Cooling
is poor” section above. |
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This
is a common problem that often doesn't have a clear, permanent solution.
The first thing to check is the overall internal refrigerator temperature
(see the Appliance Accessories section for a refrigerator/freezer
thermometer). The proper temperature should be between 35 and 42 degrees.
Here are some things to try:
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| Self-defrosting
refrigerators dispose of the water generated during the defrost cycle,
usually via a tube or channel that directs the water to a pan at the
bottom of the refrigerator. From the pan, the water normally evaporates.
(See a more detailed explanation of this in the How Things Work section
of our website). If the tube or channel is clogged or obstructed, the water backs up and leaks into the inside of the refrigerator compartment. Then the water builds up at the bottom, inside of the refrigerator. When the water has built up for a time it may spill out of the front of the door opening. To fix this problem, clear the drain tube or channel and allow the defrost water to flow down to the drain pan. |
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| The thermostat
cycles the refrigerator on and off. The refrigerator normally runs
as long as the temperature inside the refrigerator is higher than
the set temperature. If the temperature inside the refrigerator is
cold enough and the thermostat still does not cycle off, the thermostat
may be defective. If so, you need to replace it, because it cannot
be repaired. If the thermostat is not defective, you may have a problem
with the sealed (refrigerant) system, in which case you should contact
a qualified appliance repair technician. |
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| The ice maker
is a separate appliance within the freezer section. Please see the
How things Work section of our website to learn about the normal functioning
of ice makers. Some common problems with ice makers are: The ice maker has completely stopped producing ice The ice maker is producing ice poorly |
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| Check to see
whether the ice maker has been turned off. Here's how to check. Look
for a wire along the right side of the ice maker that looks a bit
like a coat hanger. If this wire is in the raised position, the ice
maker is turned off. On some units you simply lower the wire to the
down position to turn the ice maker on. On others, you lower a small
red plastic lever to lower the wire. If the wire is in the proper
position check the freezer temperature, it should be between 0-8 degrees
Fahranheit. If it is warmer than 10-12 degrees, the ice maker may
not produce any ice. Check your door seals and thermostat, repair/replace
as necessary. |
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| When an ice
maker is producing ice poorly--when it produces just a few cubes or
none, or when the cubes are too small--it's usually because of a clogged
water line or a defective water inlet valve. First, check the water line attached to the back of the refrigerator for good water flow. To do that, first turn off the water supply valve. Then remove the water line from the back of the refrigerator. Next, place the water line into a bucket and momentarily turn the water valve back on to test the flow. If the flow is poor, you need to repair, clean, or replace the tubing or the shut-off valve that supplies the water. If the flow is good, you may have to replace the water inlet valve. |
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| The ice and
water-dispensing system of your refrigerator is quite complex. Many
components work together to provide the ice and water. Aside from
a simple problem of a leaky water tube or a jammed ice chute, most
other components are not user serviceable. We suggest that you contact
a qualified appliance repair technician for such repairs. |
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Still haven't found, what you looking for here? We have more details on refrigerator repair for you to detect what's wrong with your home appliance. |
Warning! To avoid personal injury or even death, always disconnect your appliance from its power source--that is, unplug it or break the connection at the circuit breaker or fuse box--before you do any troubleshooting or repair work on your appliance. Also, because some components may have sharp edges, use caution while working on your appliance.
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A reliable surge protector board will guard your
electronic controlled Samsung refrigerator from irregular power surges.
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