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Painting
Problems from Moisture
Outside
moisture such as rain and dew can penetrate a paint
coat and result in cracking, peeling, discoloration
and premature paint failure. These problems may be
observed in both heated and unheated buildings, are
more pronounced on edges and ends of boards and are
also observed where water is held on the surface.
Porous paints are particularly vulnerable to
moisture penetration.
Proper
construction and maintenance will eliminate most
exterior water problems. Ice dams occur in cold
northern climates when snow on the upper warmer
parts of a roof melts and runs downward. As the
melted snow reaches the roof overhang which is not
heated, it freezes once more. With repeated thawing
and freezing on the roof more water moves to the
roof edge and an ice dam begins to build up. The
melted water may penetrate the roof and drain into
the exterior walls, thus causing moisture and
associated paint problems.
Ice dams
can be reduced or eliminated by adequate insulation
in attics and by proper attic ventilation. Inside
moisture (water vapor) can destroy paint on the
outside of a building by diffusing through the
walls. Water vapor from cooking, dishwashing,
clothes dryers, bathing and normal respiration by
an average family of four can contribute three
gallons of water per day to the humidity. If the
inside of all exterior walls does not have a vapor
barrier or if the vapor barrier is improperly
installed, water vapor passes into the walls during
cold winter weather and condenses to a liquid. The
water eventually soaks into the siding and wets the
paint and is a common cause of blistering and
peeling. The problem may be particularly pronounced
around bathrooms, laundry rooms, kitchens and other
areas of high humidity.
Interior
water vapor can also move into the attic space and
condense on the gable ends, causing paint peeling.
Moisture may also condense on the attic side of the
roof decking and eventually work its way down the
side walls, causing paint peeling near the tops of
these walls. To prevent condensation problems in
the attic, it should be well ventilated. Gable
roofs should have screened vent areas of at least
one square foot per 300 square feet of ceiling
area. Hip roofs should have continuous slotted
vents in the eaves to allow air to enter the attic
and ridge vents to allow its exit. Condensation
problems in cold climates are best prevented by
installation of a continuous 6 mil polyethylene
vapor barrier on the warm side of all exterior
walls and ceilings. The vapor barrier should fit
tightly around electrical outlets, doors, windows
and other openings. A vapor barrier, sometimes
called a soil cover, should be installed directly
over the soil in all houses with crawl spaces. This
will keep moisture from moving out of the soil and
up into the living space and then through the walls
and ceilings. If a vapor barrier is absent, it can
be installed under new paneling or dry wall.
To
reduce water vapor in the house, vent high humidity
areas such as kitchens and bath areas to the
outside. Clothes dryers should be vented directly
to the outside and not to the attic, basement or
crawl space. Mechanical humidifiers add large
quantities of moisture to the air and should not be
used if paint peeling is a problem.
Blistering
Temperature blisters are bubble-like swellings that
occur on the surface of the paint film as early as
a few hours or as long as one to two days after
painting. They occur only in the last coat of
paint. They are caused when a thin dry skin has
formed on the outer surface of the fresh paint and
the liquid thinner in the wet paint under the dry
skin changes to vapor and cannot escape. A rapid
rise in temperature, as when the direct rays of the
sun fall directly on freshly painted wood, will
cause the vapors to expand and produce blisters.
Usually only oil- based paint blisters in this way.
Dark colors which absorb heat and thick paint coats
are more likely to blister than white paints or
thin coats.
To
prevent temperature blisters, avoid painting
surfaces that will soon be heated."Follow the sun
around the house" for the best procedure. Thus, the
north side of the building should be painted early
in the morning, the east side late in the morning,
the south side well into the afternoon, and the
west side late in the afternoon. However, at least
two hours should elapse before the fresh paint film
cools to the point where condensation will
occur.
If
blistering does occur, allow the paint to dry for a
few days. Scrape off the blisters, smooth the edges
with sandpaper and spot paint the area. Moisture
blisters are also bubble-like swellings on the
surface of the paint film. As the name implies,
they usually contain moisture when they are formed.
They may occur where outside moisture such as rain
enters the wood through joints and other end grain
areas of boards and siding. Paint blisters caused
by outside water are usually concentrated around
joints and the end grain of wood. Paint failure is
most severe on the sides of buildings facing the
prevailing winds and rain. Blisters may occur in
both heated and unheated buildings.
Moisture
blisters may also result from inside liquid water
moving to the outside. Plumbing leaks, overflow of
sinks, bathtubs or shower spray and improperly
sealed walls are sources of inside water. Moisture
blisters usually include all paint coats down to
the wood surface. After the blisters appear, they
dry out and collapse. Small blisters may disappear
completely, fairly large ones may leave a rough
spot and in severe cases the paint will peel. Thin
coatings of new, oil-based paint are the most
likely to blister. Old, thick coats are usually too
rigid to swell and form blisters. Therefore,
cracking and peeling will usually result.
Elimination
of the moisture problem is the only practical way
to prevent moisture blisters in paint. The moisture
source should be identified and eliminated to avoid
more serious problems such as wood decay or rot and
loss of insulating value.
Peeling
and Cracking Intercoat peeling is the separation of
the new pain film from the old paint coat,
indicating a weak bond between the two. Intercoat
peeling usually results from inadequate cleaning of
the weathered paint and usually occurs within one
year of repainting. This type of intercoat paint
peeling can be prevented by following good painting
practices.
Intercoat
peeling can also result from allowing too much time
between the primer coat and top coat in a new paint
job. If you wait longer than two weeks before
applying a top coat to an oil-base primer,
soap-like materials may form on the surface and
interfere with the bonding of the next coat of
paint. When the period between applications exceeds
two weeks, scrub the surface before applying the
second coat. Do not apply a primer coat in the fall
and wait until spring to finish with the top
coat.
A simple
test can be conducted to determine if the new paint
coat is likely to peel. First, clean the old paint
surface. Then, repaint a small area with the new
paint and allow it to dry for at least two days.
Then, firmly press one end of a"band-aid" type
adhesive bandage onto the painted area. Jerk it off
with a snapping action. If the tape is free of
paint,the new paint is well bonded to the old
surface. If the new paint adheres to the tape, the
old surface is too chalky and needs more cleaning
or the use of an oil-based primer.
Cross-grain
cracking occurs when paint coatings become too
thick. This problem often occurs on older homes
that have been painted several times. Paint usually
cracks in the direction it was brushed onto the
wood. Once cross-grain cracking has occurred the
only solution is to completely remove the old paint
and apply a new finishing system. To prevent
cross-grain cracking, follow the paint
manufacturer's recommendations for spreading rates.
Do not repaint unweathered, protected areas such as
porch ceilings and roof overhangs as often as the
rest of the house. If possible, repaint these areas
only as they weather and require new paint.
However, if repainting is required, be sure to
scrub the areas with a sponge or bristle brush and
detergent in water to remove any water-soluble
materials that will interfere with adhesion of the
new paint.
Repainting
Procedures
If a new
paint coat is to be successful over a problem area,
any moisture problems must be eliminated. Good
surface preparation is also essential.
If the
wood has been completely stripped or is being
painted for the first time, it should be brush
treated with a paintable water-repellent
preservative or water repellent. This treatment
will reduce the uptake of moisture by the wood.
After the water-repellent preservative or water
repellent has dried for at least two warm days,
apply an oil-base primer or a stain- blocking latex
primer, followed by at least one top coat of high
quality acrylic latex paint. One top coat of paint
should last four to five years, but two top coats
can last up to 10 years.
If only
isolated areas of the paint coat have failed by
peeling to the bare wood, spot painting may be the
best alternative. First, scrape away all loose
paint. Sandpaper or "feather" the edges of any
remaining paint smooth with the bare wood. Then
clean the old painted surface by scrubbing with a
sponge or bristle brush. Rinse the scrubbed surface
with clean water. Wipe the surface with your hand.
If the surface is still dirty or chalky, scrub it
again using a detergent, and rinse with clean
water. After the surface has been thoroughly dried,
apply one coat of a paintable water-repellent
preservative or water repellent to the bare wood,
being careful to liberally treat end and lap
joints. Any water- repellent preservative or water
repellent on the painted surface should be wiped
dry with rags. At least two warm days should be
allowed for the water-repellent preservative or
water repellent to dry before painting.
An
oil-base primer or stain-blocking latex primer
should be applied to the bare wood. At least one
top coat to match the rest of the house should
follow. Caulk large cracks and openings after
treating and priming. If intercoat peeling is a
problem, clean and prepare the entire surface. Then
apply the desired top coat. Where intercoat peeling
has been a problem, it is particularly important to
clean areas protected from sun and rain such as
porches, eaves and side walls protected by
overhangs. It is probably adequate to repaint these
protected areas every other time the house is
painted. If paint fails because of penetration of
rain and dew through porous paint, clean and
prepare the paint surface.
Then
apply one coat of an oil-base primer and top coat
with acrylic latex house paint The oil-base primer
will prevent penetration of the wood by rain or
dew. To insure good adhesion, apply the top coat
within two weeks of priming. Always use a high
quality paint, and apply it as recommended by the
manufacturer. Do not skimp on the amount of paint.
On the other hand, cross-grain cracking will result
with excessively thick paint coats. Therefore, it
is important that the paint weathers normally
before repainting. Protected areas may be painted
every other time. Research has shown that an entire
paint film (consisting of a primer and one or two
top coats) thickness of 4-6 mils, or about the
thickness of a single sheet of newspaper, will
result in the maximum service life.
Additional
Resources
Book
:
More
Books Video
:
Hand-Applied
Finishes: Topcoats Video
:
Decorating
With Paint Made Easy
Click
Here if you would
like to submit an article.
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